What inspired the author to explore surfing as a metaphor for life?
Around the Web·mese scorso


La discussione tra lettori è aperta ora. Un autore verificato può intervenire dopo aver rivendicato questo profilo.
What inspired the author to explore surfing as a metaphor for life?
Did anyone else feel a sense of peace when reading about the ocean scenes?
How did the author decide to weave surfing stories with personal memoir?