What inspired the decision to frame this surfing journey as a memoir of self-discovery?
Around the Web·mese scorso
Barbarian Days
Barbarian Days
La discussione tra lettori è aperta ora. Un autore verificato può intervenire dopo aver rivendicato questo profilo.
What inspired the decision to frame this surfing journey as a memoir of self-discovery?
Did anyone else feel a deep connection to the waves as a metaphor for life's challenges?
How did Finnegan decide which surfing stories to include, given the vast scope of his experience?