What inspired the decision to frame this surfing journey as a memoir of self-discovery?
Around the Web·vorige maand
Barbarian Days
Barbarian Days
De lezersdiscussie is nu open. Een geverifieerde auteur kan deelnemen nadat dit profiel is geclaimd.
What inspired the decision to frame this surfing journey as a memoir of self-discovery?
Did anyone else feel a deep connection to the waves as a metaphor for life's challenges?
How did Finnegan decide which surfing stories to include, given the vast scope of his experience?